Château de ChenonceauChenonceaux
Auberge du Bon Laboureur
The Bon Laboureur is both a very comfortable place to stay and one of the best restaurants in Touraine with impeccable service. The wine list, particularly the Loire, is very good and the staff really know both their wines and how to serve them. It is possible to eat outside in the garden during the summer. Founded in 1786 as a Relais de Poste, Antoine Jeudi took it over in 1902 and now his great grandson, also called Antoine, runs it. The American writer Henry James stayed here and he mentioned his visit in A Little Tour in France.
We had one very amusing incident here in the middle of August 2003 – the year of the great heat wave. When we booked we tried to get a table outside but this wasn’t possible so we were promised one by the window, which we were duly given. However, it was so hot (probably around 35˚C) that even without moving we were soon all pouring with sweat. By coincidence we had an electric fan in the car and were given permission to set it up by our table, which made the prospect of having a meal bearable. During the evening it was noticeable that the staff did as much of their preparation as possible close to the fan. At the end of the meal as we disconnected the fan we could see that our fellow diners were aghast and surprised at what we were doing as we had been the first to arrive and the rest of the diners arrived after we had plugged the fan in.
Nowadays this should not be a problem as the restaurant now has an efficient air conditioning system.
Menus: €30 lunch – except Sunday and public holidays. Evening €48 and €85 (€72 with one course less).
Auberge du Bon Laboureur
37150 Chenonceaux
Tel: 02.47.23.90.02
Email: laboureur@wanadoo.fr
Web: www.bonlaboureur.com
Sadly the other restaurants in Chenonceaux are nowhere near this standard. The Relais Chenonceaux, 10 Rue Docteur Bretenneau (02.47.23.98.11) is one to avoid – the food is mediocre and the service is poor.
4 comments:
Had another great meal there a couple of weeks ago Jim. Highlight for me was the seasonal "lievre a la royale" a deconstructed version of this classic dish with the hare filleted and rolled into a large disc. Sauce was unctious and it was served with a delicious pomme puree in its own cocotte. Accompanied (of course) by a Jacky Blot Bourgeuil Le Haut de la Butte from the 2002 vintage.
Thanks Mark. Sounds great.
Correction - of course the 2002 Haut de La Butte was a pre-Blot vintage. Of Jackie's wines we had one of your favourites - the Cuvee Remus 2005 which accompanied the salad de homard and moelleux de crabe deliciously. The restaurant has a good selection of half bottles - a few of which are not on the list. Ideal for those dining a deux.
2002 was actually the first Blot vintage. They bought the property just before the harvest, so in a way 2003 was the first true Blot vintage as they had charge of the vines for the whole year.
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