Awards and citations:


1997: Le Prix du Champagne Lanson Noble Cuvée Award for investigations into Champagne for the Millennium investment scams

2001: Le Prix Champagne Lanson Ivory Award for investdrinks.org

2011: Vindic d'Or MMXI – 'Meilleur blog anti-1855'

2011: Robert M. Parker, Jnr: ‘This blogger...’:

2012: Born Digital Wine Awards: No Pay No Jay – best investigative wine story

2012: International Wine Challenge – Personality of the Year Award




Friday 14 November 2008

Four recent wines: Desbourdes (Chinon), Natter (Sancerre) and Val Brun (Coteaux de Saumur)


2001 Cuvée Prestige L’ Arpenty Chinon Francis & Françoise Desbourdes
Francis and Françoise are one of several wine-making Desbourdes in the village of Panzoult – a wonderful name and so Rabelaisian! Panzoult is effectively the eastern end of the Chinon appellation. Although there are a few villages further to the east that are within the appellation, I have yet to come across any significant growers there.

Certainly this is fully mature – a hint bricky and some mid-weight evolved, delicate fruit. Unlikely to improve further and best drunk within the next year.

UK importer: Yapp Brothers



Two Sancerre whites from Henry Natter (Montigny)
2007 Sancerre
2006 Cuvée François de la Grange de Montigny

Fascinating contrast of vintages here – the 2007 domaine all zippy, zesty, citric and mineral while the 2006 is more concentrated and powerful – more yellow plum than the citric fruits that are often characteristic of Sancerre. Admittedly the Cuvée François is from old vines and has more bottle age, even so there are marked differences between the two vintages. 2007 domaine makes an ideal aperitif, while the 2006 Cuvée François is best with food – many types of fish and most chicken dishes.


Web: www.henrynatter.com





1989 Coteaux de Saumur, Domaine de Val Brun
Lovely sweet wine from this great vintage and made at a time when Eric Charruau was taking over from his dad, Jean-Pierre. Also at a time when the Coteaux de Saumur appellation was being revived. Attractive, vibrant mid-gold colour with a fine balance of rich citric fruit including orange peel. Coteaux de Saumur is often in the citric register rather than the honey and apricot found in the Coteaux du Layon. Best sipped on its own or with some Stilton. Not had the best storage conditions but should be good for at least another 10 years, longer if stored in ideal conditions.

Web: www.valbrun.com

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