Wednesday, 31 March 2010
Tuesday, 30 March 2010
15 avril 2010
Dans 10 bars tendances*, 10 artistes font appel au public pour réaliser une oeuvre dédiée à ce rosé demi-sec, le temps d'une soirée.
Dessin, sculture, photo, jeu, mise en formes et en lumières... ce quartier parisien sera nimbé de rose et plongé dans une bonne humeur communicative et gourmande !
* L'Art Café, Le Bar des Ferrailleurs, Le Café Divan, Le Charlotte Bar, El Rancho Dominicano, L'Iguana Café, Le Mégalo Bar, La Pirada, Le Que Pasa, Le Tribar.
20 Rue des Vendanges, 41400 Saint-Georges-sur-Cher.
Monday, 29 March 2010
I was delighted to have the opportunity to taste a big selection of the 2009s from Bourgueil on Saturday afternoon in Tours. Admittedly 2009 is a very good vintage, so the standard should be high but there were no undrinkable wines among those I tasted and I tasted all the 2009s on show from the 46 vignerons present. I fancy that 10 years ago this would not have been the case: there would still have been some rough, rustic, unripe wines despite 2009s favourable conditions.
A pity that some of the hordes of wine merchants and journalists heading to Bordeaux for the en primeur tastings this coming week did not take the time to stop in Tours on Saturday to become acquainted with these 2009s. Almost all of them less than 10€ a bottle prix publique from the domaine – many closer to 5€ and likely to be offering more pleasure per euro than many of the highly priced wines being tasted in Bordeaux.
My favourite producers/wines
These are the wines/producers I picked out from tasting the 2009s Don't forget that many of the wines have yet to be bottled. The light styles will be bottled fairly soon, while some of the vin de garde will not be bottled until 2011. The lighter styles come from vines planted on sand and gravel or gravel, while the more structured wines come from the clay-limestone coteaux.
My impression is that some of the 2009 'cuvée printemps' would in a lesser vintage be considered vin de garde given their concentration and structure.
Listed in the order I tasted them:
Château de Minière (Ingrandes de Touraine): showed three wines. My preference was for the middle cuvée: Château de Minière from 40 year old vines planted on the coteaux. The Cuvée Vieilles Vignes is very concentrated but currently quite marked by the wood, so difficult to assess properly at this stage.
Lamé Delisle Boucard (Ingrandes): Domaine des Chesnaies.
Jean-Marc and Stephane Breton, Vignoble de la Grioche (Restigné). One of my discoveries of the day. 13ha of vines. Liked their cuvée printemps, Cuvée de Santenay (5€) from 30 year old vines on gravel but was particularly impressed by their Cuvée Manon from 60 YO vines on the coteaux, which will be around 6€ when it is available – a bargain! I see from Stéphane's rather dormant blog that they won a Saint-Vincent at the Bourgueil Concours 2008 for their 2007 Cuvée Manon.
Delanoue Frères, Domaine de la Noiraie (Benais). 32 ha estate including 7ha in Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil. 10ha in Bourgueil is in conversion to organic viticulture. Won a Saint-Vincent for their rosé. Their soft and supple spring red Cuvée Saint-Vincent comes from 25 year old vines on the gravel. They used carbonic maceration on 10% to emphasize the fruit. The dense and structured Cuvée Prestige is from 50-60 YO vines on the coteaux.
Nau Frères (Ingrandes): I find this domaine consistently impressive and 2009 is no exception. Les Blottières (6€) will be bottled in June, while the powerful and impressive Vieilles Vignes is unlikely to be bottled before 2011.
Jean-Marie Amirault (Benais). 10 hectares – 5ha on the gravel at Restigné and 5 on the coteaux at Benais. Powerful, black fruited and impressive 2009 – not sure which cuvée I'm afraid!
More to add
Christophe Chasle/ Xavier Courant: Coteaux
The is a domaine of seven hectares in Saint-Patrice which was run by Christophe Chasle from 1982 to 2008. Last year he decided to retire and sold the domaine to Xavier Courant, who used to be a caviste and then studied viticulture and how to make wine at Montreuil-Bellay. Xavier made the 2009s.
Joël Julienne (Chouzé-sur-Loire): a small domaine of just 2ha of vines on sand/gravel.
Domaine Jérôme Godefroy (Chouzé-sur-Loire): Wasn't very impressed with the slightly rustic 2009 but certainly liked the concentration, balance and structure of the 2008 Les Champs Colesses. 8 ha of Bourgueil plus some in Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgueil.
Other recent posts on Bourgueil around 8th Fête de Bourgueil here (Concours), here and here.
See also my posting on Le 5 du Vin for Tuesday 30th March.
Sunday, 28 March 2010
Foire et savoir-faire en Touraine Côté Sud
Un second pôle installé dans le carrefour, le « pôle bois », accueille l’allée des tourneurs sur bois, du débardage à cheval, un sculpteur sur bois et une démonstration de bois de chauffage.
Venez-vous restaurer au sein du village alimentaire et comme toujours vous amuser à la fête foraine jouxtant la place de Verdun.
Saturday, 27 March 2010
Like all of wines in the vertical this was served blind with no indication of producer. The 1999 was mid-weight with some notes of sous bois with attractive easy drinking fruit and some refreshing acidity in the finish. A classic Loire red.
The 1989 moved us from the classic, traditional Loire red style to the abnormal. 1989 was a very hot and dry year – widely acknowledged as one of the great Loire vintages of the 20th century. Perhaps in the top three along with 1921 and 1947. Since this marked the bicentenary of the French Revolution I'm sure the French viewed the exceptional climate of 1989 as a sign of divine approval of the events 200 years ago. "Regarding the sum of the temperature during the year 1989 saw 300˚ more degrees than normal," remarked Jacques Puisais. It was not unusual for the grapes to have reached 14 degrees potential, even on occasions 15.
From the soft and round aromas, including notes of leather, it is evident that the 1989 comes from a very hot year and, like in 2003, you sense that the wine could come from the south of France. There is some acidity in the finish but noticeably less than in a classic year. Possibly very slightly drying in the finish but certainly a wine to enjoy drinking especially with JP's suggestion – a filet de biche presumably cooked for him by Jean Bardet, present at this soirée. Bardet used to have the restaurant and hotel, Jean Bardet, in northern Tours. He retired about two or three years ago.
Perico Lagrasse talked about an unusual excess of sunshine being more difficult to cope with than a lack of sunshine. Although this is fair comment for dry whites, I'm not convinced that it holds true for the Loire except some would argue that in 2003 there was too much sunshine and heat. I suspect that given the choice most people would plump for a 1989 in preference for a 1984, 1977, 1972 or other years where the sun was notoriously shy.
1979 was as Perico correctly said 'l'année le plus modeste'. Definitely old style Loire Cabernet Franc dominated by green pepper notes and initially, at least, lacking charm. It did improve in the glass but really only a wine for Loire fanatics even if does reflect its terroir. I fancy today with similar weather conditions the result would be very different given the improvements seen in viticulture and vinification over the past 30 years.
1969 was a real revelation. "We had a super September," commented Jean-Claude Audebert. "The vintage was very tannic and most of the wines would have spent one to three years in wood before bottling." The 1969 still had lovely ripe fruit with the characteristic, sooty, coal tar notes of Loire Cabernet Franc along with hints of pencil shavings. Good length and a lovely bottle. "You need 30-40 years to really see the truth," said JP, "nowadays we attach too much importance to young wines." JP's food suggestion: veal kidneys grilled over vine cuttings.
Unfortunately, as already mentioned the 1959, couldn't live up to the 1969.
Clin d’œil à 100 ans d’amour du cinéma
Lieu : Saumur, Saint-Hilaire-Saint-Florent
- Dimanche 11 avril 2010
- De grands noms ont d’ores et déjà accepté de fêter l’ivresse amoureuse : Irène Frain, Régine Deforges, Benoîte Groult, Claude Chabrol, Mathias Moncorgé Gabin, Macha Méril, Patrick Poivre d’Arvor, Eve Ruggieri, Anouk Aimée, Jeanne Manson, Claude Sérillon, Nelson Monfort, Claude Brasseur, Brigitte Fossey, Michel Onfray, Jean Favier, Jacques Weber, David Foenkinos, Alain Baraton, Guillaume Laurent, Maryline Desbiolles, Florian Zeller, Nelson Monfort, Bernard Werber, etc.
Contact Presse : Hélène Marchand
02 41 83 83 90
06 45 08 83 73
Friday, 26 March 2010
Medaille de Bronze: Pierre Caslot, Domaine de la Chevalerie
Bourgueil Vin de Garde
Medaille de Bronze: Lamé-Delisle-Boucard
A reminder that there will be 46 Bourgueil producers in Tours tomorrow. I shall be off shortly to Tours to help judge in the Concours des vins de Bourgueil, which will concentrate on the 2009 vintage.
Details of the concours here.
Details of the Bourgueil invasion here.
Report from La Nouvelle République this morning.
'Un déluge de clowns est annoncé sur la ville
Plusieurs rendez-vous clownesques sont proposés au public d'ici juin.'
Lire la suite ici.
Thursday, 25 March 2010
For further press articles on the proposed TV programme click here.
'Indage Vintners under threat of bankruptcy
The company, formerly known as Champagne Indage, has total debts of about INR4bn (£59m), according to the court, and assets of only INR2.76bn.'
26th March: Please note that I confused the ownership of Bouvet-Ladubay yesterday. Bouvet is owned by United Breweries not by Indage Vintners, so therefore is certainly not affected by the problems of Indage. My apologies for the confusion.
Wednesday, 24 March 2010
The Wednesday morning market in Loches is always worth a visit if you are in the area. We would have gone to the Saturday edition last week but as it was pouring with rain it didn't appeal.
Tuesday, 23 March 2010
L'Auberge du XII Siècle in Saché
Le Bon Laboureur in Chenonceaux
La Chancelière in Montbazon
La Promenade in Le Petit-Pressigny
Le Château de Marçay, Marçay near Chinon
Charles Barrier and Le Roche Le Roy in Tours
Les Hautes Roches in Rochecorbon
Le Chai du Manoir in Restigné close to Bourgueil
Le Chai du Manoir is a new star.
Report here on our last lunch at the La Promenade, Petit Pressigny – August 2009.
The visit was to check this producer's rosé and all seemed to go well – the rosé passed its various analytical tests. However, the producer was astounded to receive the following letter because they had forgotten to hand to La Technicienne the laboratory analysis. Equally La Technicienne apparently did not ask for the analysis.
Recommandé avec accusé de reception
NOTIFICATION DE DECISION SUITE A UN MANQUEMENT RELATIF AUX EXAMENS ANALYTIQUE ET/OU ORGANOLEPTIQUE
Vu les dispositions législatives et réglementaires du Titre IV du Code rural,
Vu les dispositions des directives du Conseil des Agréments et Contrôles de l'INAO,
A l'issue d'un contrôle effectué par l'organisme d'inspection Association des Services des Syndicats Viticoles de l'Anjou et de Saumur (A.S.S.V.A.S.), sur votre vin revendiqué en AOC <>, sur votre vin revendiqué en AOC (Rosé de Loire)
– la non remise de l'analyse du lot devant être réalisée dans le cadre de l'autocontrôle.
Vous trouverez ci-joint la copie du rapport d'inspection, ainsi qu'un tableau reprenant le manquement et la sanction encourue. Vous pouvez adresser le tableau joint dans un délai de 15 jours, en indiquant vos observations dans la partie grisée du tableau.
En l'absence de réponse et/ou observations de votre part dans ce délai de 15 jours, la sanction encourue prendra un caractère définitif. Vous aurez alors un delai d'un mois pour faire appel de cette décision auprès des services de l'INAO>
Toute décision de déclassement de lot, de retrait du benefice de l'appellation, de suspension ou de retrait d'habilitation est notifiée à la direction générale de la concurrence, de la consommation et de la répression des fraudes, ainsi qu'à la direction générale des douanes et droits indirects.
Je vous prie d'agréer, Messieurs, l'assurance de ma considération distinguée.
Pour le Directeur de l'INAO
Et par délégation
In view of the gravity of this heinous crime it was obviously out of the question for La Technicienne to have phoned or emailed the domaine and asked for the missing analysis be posted or emailed to her in Angers.
Clearly the producer concerned deserves either a long period of incarceration (avec souris) or summary execution.
Monday, 22 March 2010
Dans la joie, l'allégresse et la fête, deux jours de vins, de cuisine, de musique, de spectacle dans une ambiance chaleureuse mais décontractée. Tous les renseignements sur www.vinicircus.com <http://www.vinicircus.com> .
Colportez la bonne nouvelle, Vini Circus est revenu ...
À bientôt à Vini Circus.
- Le vendredi 9 Avril à partir de 19h
- Le samedi 10 Avril de 10h à 19h
- Le dimanche 11 Avril de 10h à 19h
- Le lundi 12 Avril de 9h à 13h
Agnès et Jacques CARROGET-GAUTIER T: 02.40.96.23.43 Anjou villages, Muscadet, Coteaux de la Loire, Coteaux d'Ancenis, firstname.lastname@example.org Domaine de la Paonnerie - La Paonnerie, 44150 ANETZ
Olivier LEMASSON T: 02.54.44.13.88 Vin de pays du Loir et Cher / Les Vins Contés
Jean MAUPERTUIS T: 04.73.77.31.84 Côtes d'Auvergne
Epeigné-les-Bois: result of the 2nd round
François Bonneau (Socialist) comfortably won the second round of the French regional elections held at Epeigné-les-Bois yesterday.
François Bonneau (Socialist): 96
Henri Novelli (UMP): 64
Philippe Loiseau (Front National): 26
Total votes cast: 186
Bonneau's share of the vote: 51.6%
Novelli's share of the vote: 34.4%
The result across France mirrored Eepigné's with the Socialists taking 52% of the vote and Sarkozy's UMP party on 35%. This leaves the UMP in control of only one of France's 22 regions – Alsace. Following the Epeigné result (and probably influenced by the result elsewhere) French Prime Minister François Fillon is reported to be considering resigning.
Sunday, 21 March 2010
See posting on picking the 2009 vintage with Frédéric, Natalie and the family.